The Boulder Mail Trail is a remote and epic hike in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument in Southern Utah. This historic trail takes hikers across vast expanses of slickrock, and down and over multiple creeks, including the formidable Death Hollow. This is a bucketlist hike for any desert hiking lover looking for a seriously memorable challenge, but it definitely requires experience and planning before undertaking it.
The trail is roughly 15 miles long point-to-point and connects the towns of Boulder and Escalante, Utah. It was historically used to deliver mail between the two towns via mule. While the trail can be completed in a day, most people backpack the Boulder Mail Trail in order to take their time and be able to explore the area deeper. This trip report shares my experience day hiking the Boulder Mail Trail, along with a complete guide to help you plan your trip.
I can’t stress enough that this is NOT a trail for beginner hikers or anyone unfamiliar with hiking in the desert. The only other group we saw during our hike was a guided backpacking trip, so if you aren’t confident with your navigational skills, I recommend hiring a guide!
Watch It: Day Hiking the Boulder Mail Trail
Recreating Responsibly on the Boulder Mail Trail
The Boulder Mail Trail is a remote hike in a pristine Wilderness Study Area within Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. It’s incredibly important to not only be prepared, but to take extra care to recreate responsibly and minimize your impact on the environment.
Leave No Trace
Help leave the outdoors better than you found it by always practicing the 7 Leave No Trace principles. This means:
- Plan ahead & prepare. Hiking in the desert comes with unique considerations, so make sure you have some experience with in before a hike like this. I would also recommend being in good hiking shape since it’s such a physically demanding trail. Always carry a map when hiking in remote terrain.
- Travel & camp on durable surfaces. Stay on trails or other durable surfaces like slickrock and washes.
- Dispose of waste properly. Pack out all waste and trash, including food scraps and human waste.
- Leave what you find. Don’t carve into, take, or stack rocks or other cultural and natural objects in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.
- Minimize campfire impacts. If you’re backpacking and want to have a campfire, be sure to check for fire bans and practice campfire safety. This means creating your campfire in a portable fire ring so you can pack out your ashes. Make sure the fire is attended to and doesn’t get out of control.
- Respect wildlife. Never feed wildlife and make sure to maintain a safe distance. The only wildlife I saw on the trail besides birds was a garter snake in Death Hollow.
- Be considerate of others. You probably won’t encounter too many other people along the trail, but be sure to be respectful and give uphill hikers the right of way, if applicable.
The member-driven Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics teaches people how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly. This copyrighted information has been reprinted with permission from the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: www.LNT.org.
Logistics of Hiking the Boulder Mail Trail
If you’re planning on hiking the Boulder Mail Trail some logistical planning is required. The trail is typically done as a point-to-point hike between Boulder and Escalante, regardless of whether someone is day hiking or backpacking. I suppose you could also do an out-and-back hike down into Death Hollow from either trailhead (it’s roughly ½ way through the trail), but then you’ll miss out on the trail’s full beauty.
While you can hike the Boulder Mail Trail from either direction, most people start in Boulder and end in Escalante because there’s less elevation gain overall. The main trailhead with interpretive information is also in Boulder. The trail climbs in and out of multiple canyons, so there’s going to be gain and loss regardless of the direction that you hike.
The easiest way to coordinate your hike is to have two vehicles that you can use to shuttle between the two trailheads, which is what my husband and I did. We drove down in separate vehicles the evening before our hike, and dropped my car off at our ending trailhead in Escalante. Then we drove my husband’s truck back up to Boulder and camped near the trailhead. It’s about a 30-minute drive between the two trailheads.
After our hike my husband remarked that it would probably be easy to hitch hike from Escalante back to the trailhead in Boulder if needed. People frequently drive that stretch of highway, and there are a lot of tourists, particularly during peak season in the spring and fall. I’ve also heard that you can hire a shuttle service from local guides in Escalante.
Trail Stats for Boulder Mail Trail
- Trailhead Location: Boulder: Google Maps | Escalante: Google Maps
- Bathrooms?: There are no bathrooms at either trailhead.
- Trailhead Parking Difficulty: Easy-moderate. The road out to both trailheads is dirt, but should be passable by passenger cars with careful driving.
- Distance: ~15 miles (I logged exactly 16 miles, but things were definitely off going through Death Hollow)
- Elevation Gain: 2,575 ft.
- Difficulty: Very difficult day hike (9-10/10)
- Estimated Hike Time: 6-9+ hours (It took my husband and I 7 hours and we were moving fairly quickly on the trail until the end.)
- Best Time of Year to Hike: Spring (March-May) and Fall (late September-November).
- Cost: FREE
- AllTrails Link
Are permits required to hike the Boulder Mail Trail?
You don’t need a permit to day hike the Boulder Mail Trail, but you should still fill out the trail log. If you’re backpacking you need to fill out a self-issued permit at the trailhead.
Camping Before & After Hiking the Boulder Mail Trail
We camped near the trailhead in Boulder the nights before and after our hike. We slept in our Hiker Trailer, and didn’t feel comfortable bringing it all the way up to the trailhead, so we chose a site closer to the Boulder airstrip. There’s room for camping at the trailhead, but spots are tucked into the pinon-juniper forest, so they’re best suited for tents or sleeping in your vehicle.
Trip Report: Day Hiking the Boulder Mail Trail
You wind through PJ forest throughout the hike and alternate between stretches of open slickrock and sandy trail. You can see an old telegraph line throughout the hike, which is a unique historical remnant in an otherwise primitive area. Prior to the hike I was nervous about navigating the slickrock sections of the trail, but there were PLENTY of cairns marking the way (arguably too many, there’s definitely no need to build more!).
Death Hollow was the obvious highlight of the hike. It’s a VERY steep (and exposed) drop down (and an even steeper climb back out), but it’s worth it to see one of the most beautiful desert canyons in Southern Utah (in my opinion, I mean just look at that ponderosa below!). You only hike through Death Hollow for about a mile on the Boulder Mail Trail, but there’s more to explore if you’re backpacking.
Water typically always flows through Death Hollow. When we hiked the Boulder Mail Trail the water was running high, so we couldn’t avoid getting our feet wet. There was also water in Sand Creek and Mamie Creek, but if you’re hiking in the fall during a particularly dry year they may not be reliable water sources.
I’m going to be honest, I mentally checked out during the last few miles of the hike. The wind picked up and we could see Escalante long before we got down there, which was such a tease. Once you make it up and over the final slickrock hill it’s a relatively flat hike to the end trailhead. There are a few water crossings near the end where the trail intersects with the Escalante River.
The biggest mistake that I made during the hike was forgetting my hiking poles. I definitely underestimated just how steep the climbs in and out of the canyons are, particularly Death Hollow. I have a lingering knee injury that flares up occasionally and it was screaming on this hike!
Map of the Boulder Mail Trail
Where to Eat After Hiking the Boulder Mail Trail
If you’re finishing the Boulder Mail Trail in Escalante it makes sense to grab a bite to eat in town. There are a few solid options, including Escalante Outfitters for pizza or Nemo’s for fast food and ice cream (you deserve it!).
If you’re willing to drive back up to Boulder, I highly recommend grabbing dinner at Hell’s Backbone Grill. Reservations are recommended. We definitely had to hustle a bit on the trail because ours was a little early, but it was worth it. This farm-to-table restaurant is easily one of the best restaurants in Utah. Save room for the dark magic gingerbread if you go!
What to Pack to Day Hike the Boulder Mail Trail
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Backpack:
Carrying a backpack is essential when hiking the Boulder Mail Trail, but the right pack is going to be a matter of personal preference. I typically carry an Osprey Sirrus 24L pack, which I find to be the perfect size backpack for long day hikes.
Recommendation: Osprey Sirrus 24L pack
Water Bladder:
Water is one of the most important things to bring with you on any hike in order to stay hydrated, but it’s particularly important on the Boulder Mail Trail where there may be long stretches without access to water. While you don’t have to carry a water bladder, I prefer it over a water bottle for easy access while moving on the trail. I carried 3L of water during the hike, but only drank 2 (which I regretted afterwards).
Recommendation: Osprey 3L water bladder
Snacks:
It’s important to carry snacks on your hike to keep yourself fueled up. Ideally you want to carry more snacks than you think you’ll need in case your hike goes longer than expected. Protein bars, trail mix, pb&j sandwiches, gummy candy, dried fruit, and jerky are all great hiking snack options for a big hike like this.
Extra Layers:
It’s always a good idea to carry extra layers on a long hike in case the weather changes or you find yourself out later than expected. I typically carry a lightweight windbreaker and puffy jacket on long hikes. Both items pack down into themselves so they don’t take up a lot of space in my pack. A rain jacket is also a good idea, especially during the summer when afternoon thunderstorms are fairly common.
Recommendations: Black Diamond Distance Wind Shell | Patagonia Nano Puff
Hiking Poles:
I HIGHLY recommend using hiking poles on the Boulder Mail Trail to help take pressure off of your knees on the steep ascents/descents. They can also help give you extra momentum while hiking uphill. Be sure to put rubber tips on the bottom of your hiking poles so they don’t scratch the slickrock.
Recommendation: Trekology Hiking Poles
Headlamp:
Whether you’re getting a pre-dawn start, or your hike takes longer than expected, carrying a headlamp is essential to help illuminate the trail in the dark.
Recommendation: Black Diamond Cosmo 350 Headlamp
First-Aid Kit
While hopefully you won’t need it, a well-stocked first-aid kit is one of the 10 essentials and should be carried on the Boulder Mail Trail.
Recommendation: Adventure Medical Kit
Map & Compass:
A map is essential when hiking the Boulder Mail Trail. While a physical, topographic map is preferable, my husband and I found that the maps on both AllTrails and Gaia GPS were accurate. If you’re going to rely on a downloaded map on your phone, also make sure to carry a portable battery charger in case your phone dies.
Emergency Bivvy:
Carrying shelter, like an emergency bivvy, can help save your life in the event you have to spend an unexpected night in the backcountry along the Boulder Mail Trail. While you hopefully won’t need it, it’s a lightweight piece of gear and could save your life.
Recommendation: SOL Emergency Bivvy
Emergency GPS:
You won’t have cell service along the Boulder Mail Trail, but carrying an emergency GPS with satellite communication allows you to get in touch with officials ASAP in the event of an emergency.
Recommendation: Garmin inReach mini 2
Sunscreen:
Sun protection is essential when hiking in the desert. Make sure to lather on some sun screen and wear clothing with sun protection, like a sun shirt, hat, and sunglasses, before hitting the Boulder Mail Trail.
Recommendation: Drunk Elephant Umbra Sheer Sunscreen
Extra Socks:
One of the most underrated pieces of gear to carry while hiking is an extra pair of socks. Your feet are probably going to get wet in Death Hollow, and the creek down there is incredibly sandy. I was so grateful I had an extra pair of socks to change into before the hike out.
Recommendation: Smartwool low-cut hiking socks
Camera:
If you want to memorialize your hike along the Boulder Mail Trail, make sure to pack your camera. While a phone camera will get the job done, I find it’s always nice to have higher quality photos as well.
Recommendation: Sony Alpha a7iii
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